Santa Cruz de la Sierra
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When looking at Bolivian travel itineraries, the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra is not necessarily one that features on many lists. That is somewhat surprising given that this eastern city is actually the largest and most populous (home to 1.6 million people) in the country. This city is home to some stunning colonial architecture and has a number of breathtaking natural tourist attractions right on its doorstep. It offers the chance to visit sweeping sand dunes, luscious botanical gardens and ancient UNESCO ruins as well as acting as a well equipped starting point for a longer Bolivian adventure.
Bolivia is a country of endless travel opportunities. Most famous are its natural wonders, with he crowing jewel being the otherworldly landscape of Salar de Uyuni. It is also home to a number of impressive, yet extremely varied cities with each having their own unique culture, ambience, food scene and attractions. Amongst the most famous are the high altitude hangout of La Paz, the bustling administrative capital that is widely recognised for its dramatic setting in a canyon where visitors can ride the extensive Mi Teleférico cable car system for panoramic views of the Andes. The constitutional capital, Sucre, is affectionately known as the "White City" due to its remarkably well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture and whitewashed buildings, which have earned it a status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Nearby Potosí provides a deeper look into the country’s imperial past, standing as one of the highest cities in the world and offering tours of the historic silver mines at Cerro Rico.
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One city that often gets missed off of Bolivian itineraries is Santa cruz de la Sierra. Its geographical location, in the east and reasonably far away from the popular spots of La Paz or Uyuni, mean that travellers have to go out of their way somewhat in order to visit but I am here to tell you that that should not deter you. This metropolis is one of South Americas most rapidly developing cities and offers a vibrant, tropical alternative to Bolivia’s highland cities. It is characterised by its warm climate and a modern, cosmopolitan atmosphere. As the country’s economic powerhouse, it blends a sophisticated urban lifestyle with deep-rooted traditions, making it a premier destination for those seeking world-class dining, high-end accommodation and a relaxed "Camba" cultural experience.
Things To Do
1. La Rinconada Ecoparque
Santa Cruz de la Sierra is famous for a number of botanical gardens/ecoparques found just outside the city. These are all relatively similar but consist of ecological walking trails, manicured gardens and outdoor swimming pools with restaurants. You are spoilt for choices with regards to which ones are best but the Jardin Botanico Santa Cruz, which is more of a traditional botanical garden and Biocentro Güembé, with its butterfly sanctuary, are two of the most regular you will see on tourist recommendations. As we always tend to we avoided the main tourist spots and headed to La Rinconada Ecoparque instead.
This complex is situated just outside the main city, about a 15min Uber ride, and at the forefront is the enchantingly dense gardens. There are a number of other attractions on offer however and this is easily a destination you can spend a full day at. Beyond its botanical wonders, this family-friendly resort features a sprawling complex of swimming pools, waterfalls and adventure activities like zip lines and rope swings, all set within recreated rainforest and jungle environments. There is also the opportunity to see toucans up close as the park also operates a rehabilitation centre for the birds. You can then complement a visit with traditional Bolivian cuisine at the on-site restaurant, making it an ideal day-trip destination for relaxation and nature photography.
One of the main highlights for us was the fact that the park is home to the world’s largest species of giant water lily, Victoria boliviana - which itself has a connection for us back home in London. The Bolivian waterlily was recognised as a separate, new species back in 2016 by botanists at Kew Gardens in London after seeds were donated to there from La Rinconada. La Rinconada was also recognised as a Guinness World Record holder, as a specimen grown in 2012 had the worlds largest waterlily leaf. Information about their work with Kew Gardens and a plaster cast of the record breaking leaf were on display within the gardens.
There are different entry fees depending on what you want to do. Entry to the outdoor gardens is charged at one rate, whereas if you want to add-on time at the outdoor swimming pools you’ll have to pay extra. We actually just walked the gardens (as we had a swimming pool back at our hotel) and there was more than enough to do for half a day. This is definitely a place where you will want to take insect repellent though as the jungle-like atmosphere attracts a high number of mosquitos but there is plenty of other wildlife, including numerous bird species, lizards and fish, available to see within the grounds.
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Opening Times:
TUES-SUN (9:30am-6pm)
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Cost:
190 BOB per person (£20pp) for entry to the park and swimming pools
80 BOB per person (£8.60pp) for entry to the park only
2. Parque Lomas de Arena
This protected area is situated around 12km outside of the city of Santa Cruz and is famous for its towering sand dunes, with some reaching up to 12m in height. The park is used by locals for a number of different activities and there are numerous tour companies that offer venture to the different areas
The main attraction here are the dunes and tours will take you up to the tops of the biggest sands whilst also offering you the opportunity to sandboard down to the bottom. The park is also home to a huge number of bird species and so wildlife watching tours are another common method of entering the park. It is also possible to see sloths here although they are on the rarer side. The sands are very impressive however and a stark contrast to the humid environment found within the nearby city centre.
It is entirely possible to to reach Lomas de Arena by yourself rather than with a tour company but we would recommend against it. From Santa Cruz city centre, a bus (2 BOB, 45 minutes) can drop you at the park entrance, from where it's a long, hot 7km walk to the dunes. It's also possible to come by taxi (about 200 BOB), but unless you have a 4WD and an adventurous/willing driver, you will need to walk about 4km to reach the sand. Tour companies all utilise vehicles that can safely navigate the sandy environment and you will appreciate the roof - there is no shade in the park so pack your sunscreen. The winds can also be fairly strong so a snood and/or sunglasses are also highly recommended to keep the sand out of your eyes and hair.
Opening Times:
MON-SUN (8am-4pm)
Cost:
Half Day Tour (inc sandboarding) £30-60pp (tour company dependant)
3. Plaza 24 de Septiembre
As with most South American countries, Santa Cruz has its own main town plaza. As mentioned before, the city itself is developing at a rapid rate but the old town still retains some of the colonial architecture and ancient charm. The plaza has gone through a number of names throughout history but the current one relates to the date marking the uprising of the independence movement within Santa Cruz. Fittingly, At its centre stands a statue of Ignacio Warnes, a local hero who played a pivotal role in the War of Independence, which began in 1810. The plaza is not only a tribute to this key figure but also a site with a darker past, where the head of Warnes was once displayed on a pike as a warning to those pushing for independance.
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On the plazas edge is the Catedral Metropolitana Basílica Menor de San Lorenzo de Santa Cruz, the main Catholic Church within the city. Its history dates back to the colonial era, with an architecture that has gone through periods of renovation and rebuilding which give the church a unique look within the plaza. You can enter the cathedral at certain times free of charge which gives you an opportunity to see the stunning main altar, which features parts of the original silver work, up close.
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Opening Times:
Cathedral open for visitors MON-SUN (3pm-5pm)
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Cost:
FREE
4. Casa Melchor Pinto
Situated just a short walk away from the main plaza in the old town is Casa Melchor Pinto. This cultural centre is in the impeccably restored family home of Dr Melchor Pinto Parada. There are several gallery spaces hosting temporary exhibitions (when we visited there was a very interesting photography exhibit being displayed) and a beautiful courtyard which is home to a delightful pizza restaurant (Noi) that we would definitely recommend.
You take a bit of a chance with regards to what exhibition is being displayed when you visit but the architecture alone is worth a brief stop off. The restoration has been completed to a high standard and its location, just off the main plaza, make this a perfect addition to a self-walking tour.
Opening Times:
MON-FRI (9am-10pm), SAT (3pm-10pm), SUN (11am-6pm)
Cost:
FREE
5. Museum Beni Altillo
A small museum situated just a few streets over from the main plaza, Museum Beni Altillo is found within a restored old building. This is the perfect spot for learning a little about the intriguing history of Santa Cruz (just be warned all the information is in Spanish). There are also a number of rotating art exhibitions on display here and, on certain days, you are able to access the stunning rooftop terrace. We were able to do this and it grants you an excellent view of the city as well as an opportunity to walk across the glass ceiling but, unfortunately, there is no concrete information about exactly when this terrace is open so we just got lucky.
Opening Times:
MON-FRI (8am-7pm), SAT (4pm-8pm)
Cost:
FREE
Where To Stay
Santa Cruz is now a very large city but it’s expansion has been well planned with a series of ever increasing circles being added to the outside. It is affectionately known as the "City of the Rings" due to the unique concentric road layout. The city’s urban design functions like a giant bicycle wheel, featuring a series of circular beltways intersected by radial avenues. The inner ring, known as Casco Viejo or El Centro, is where you will find the main plaza, cathedral and is effectively the old town. This historic city centre follows a traditional Spanish colonial grid system with straight lined streets but then the second to fourth ring incorporate the city’s well defined urban core. Outside of that, the ring system has progressed to ninth and tenth rings now. The system was initially implemented by city planners in an attempt to alleviate traffic but the rapid growth of Santa Cruz has outpaced infrastructure, leading to increased congestion and the need for modern viaducts and overpasses.
In terms of where is best to stay, the historic city centre is certainly a good starting point for first time visitors. The central ring, especially around the main plaza, is extremely walkable and known to be relatively safe, even at night. You have direct access to some of the tourist attractions found nearby but might have to negotiate dense traffic if wanting to leave to visit anything further outside. There are a number of reputable hotels found here and a good selection of restaurants, although most of this offer local cuisine.
Your other option, and where we actually choose to stay when we visited, is Barrio Equipetrol. This is known as the most upscale and vibrant neighbourhood in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, serving as the city's primary hub for business, luxury dining and high end accommodation. Located between the second and third rings in the city’s northeast, its main ‘artery’ is Avenida San Martín, which is lined with high-end boutiques, international banks and trendy eateries. There are a number of high end hotels found here but also some excellent apartment blocks, often with their own workspaces, cafes, rooftop terraces and swimming pools. Again, the neighbourhood is known to be particularly safe and walking the large, well-lit streets should not be a problem.
We stayed at an AirBnB in the Belle Ville Nomad building. It was pretty much brand new when we stayed and was one of the best properties in terms of cost to luxury ratio we have ever been to. The apartment was large, with a little balcony and a kitchen island. On the shared rooftop was a relaxing rooftop seating area complete with excellent swimming pool. Within walking distance were some excellent restaurants, cafes and access to a number of international ATMs. It was a short taxi ride into the centre, although the aforementioned traffic sometimes made the journey longer than it should have been. It’s location did mean that the journey to La Rinconada (or any of the botanical complexes), which is situated west of the city, was easy and avoided the inner city congestion.
We would highly recommend anywhere in Equipterol. Whilst it certainly is more expensive than other areas of the city it is still exceptionally cheap compared to similarly high-end places in South America and so you definitely get great value for your money.
Location Tips to Consider
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Find a place near the main avenue (Avenida San Martín) in the Equipetrol district. Try to aim for somewhere just off this main street (the traffic here can be quite loud), in one of the quieter side avenues. It’ll give you a more peaceful time but still allows access to the restaurants and cafes on the main road.
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Whilst there are some excellent hotels here have a look at apartment blocks with amenities such as rooftop terraces and swimming pools.
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The district either side of Equipterol are both supposed to be fairly nice as well but aim either side of Avenida San Martín for the best experience.
Where To Eat
Santa Cruz has a really intriguing mixture of culinary options. Its location as a quickly developing hub has led to a wide range of international cuisine being delivered alongside more local options. There are a number of high end restaurants found within the city but also a number of cheaper, local jaunts should you fancy something more traditional.
BEST FOR A MEAL
01
Aviator
A chicken wing restaurant housed within an airplane hanger, what more could you ask for? We are usually not a fan of themed restaurants but this aviation-centered place was so fun. It had a number of sports televisions, staff dressed as pilots, full sized model planes and some seriously tasty (cheap) chicken wings.
Opening Times: MON-SUN (11am-midnight)
Cost: £4.50pp (chicken wing selection plus non-alcoholic drink)
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Noi
The aforementioned restaurant situated within the outdoor courtyard of Casa Melchor Pinto offers a number of options including stone-baked pizzas, sandwiches and salads. The food was delicious but the outdoor setting was stunning and set away from the hustle and bustle of Santa Cruz’s busy streets.
Opening Times: TUES-SUN (9am-9pm)
Cost: £5pp (pizza plus non-alcoholic drink)
BEST FOR A SNACK
01
El Rancho Empanadas
We ate a lot of empanadas whilst in this part of the world and the ones from El Rancho were up there with our favourites. Freshly made, crispy on the outside and the jeopardy of ordering from a solely Spanish menu so not being entirely sure what you might in side made for a perfect snack.
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Opening Times: MON-SAT (8am-10pm), SUN (6pm-10pm)
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Cost: £0.95 per empanada
02
Monky's Churros
This churros spot does have a physical restaurant but you are more likely to run into one of the street vendors serving these delicious churros from the movable carts. These things are freshly made, coated with cinnamon and served with a tasty dulce de leche or chocolate sauce.
Opening Times: MON-SUN (12:00-23:00)
Cost: £3.85 (6 churros)
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Best Time to Visit
In terms of cost it really does not matter when you visit Santa Cruz. This city, despite its high end nature, is still not a major tourist destination and so prices for accommodations do not seemingly fluctuate. The one thing to maybe consider is that some of the major attractions within the city are closed, or at least have shorter opening hours, at weekends. Saturdays and Sundays also see locals travel more outside of the city to the botanical garden resorts and to Lomas de Arenas so these can both see more footfall. The main thing however for you to consider when planning a trip to Santa Cruz is the weather.
Santa Cruz has a much more tropical climate in comparison to the rest of the country and so there are times in the year when things here can feel a bit uncomfortable. The best time of year to visit is generally May-September. This is when the city experiences its dry season and during these months the temperatures are generally more pleasant, with cooler “surazos" (southern winds) that make outdoor exploration much more enjoyable. It is also the period where Santa Cruz sees its least amount of rainfall. It is still warm (maximum temperatures will range between 25-32°C during the daytime) but it is much more manageable.
October and November are the shoulder months. These are when the rain starts to return and humidity begins to rise. For the most part these are still good months to travel as the precipitation is usually limited to short, sharp showers and temperatures are still generally high with lots of sunshine. December sees the true start of the rainy season. Temperatures will increase to their highest levels of the year but the humidity rises to uncomfortable levels, which all together can lead to some less than ideal conditions for outdoor activities. March-April is usually when things return to a more comfortable level and the rain switches again to more isolated showers.
We traveled to Santa Cruz at the start of October, continuing our trend of visit places during their shoulder months, and had great weather. We barely experienced any rain and most days were filled with glorious sunshine. It was extremely hot though (temperatures increased to well above 30°C most days, hitting a high of 36°C at one point) as we seemingly hit an unseasonably warm streak to end the dry season. I would recommend aiming to visit during the peak months of May-August but October or November also seem to be a good time, at least we found them to be so.
Currency
Santa Cruz is a big city and therefore it was easy to pay for services using either cash or card. Alongside the rest of the country the official currency is the Bolivianos (BOB) and we found this to be the best option to use when paying in cash. Some tour companies accepted US Dollars but most restaurants, shops and transport preferred local currency.
Given the general size of Santa Cruz (and that it is home to some of the higher-end accommodations/businesses in Bolivia) it is no surprise that we had no issues getting local currency here. There are plenty of ATMs around to withdraw money and a number of legitimate currency exchanges that made the process of swapping cash easy.
We travelled from Santa Cruz to Samaipata - the latter being a town that had no currency exchange and only only ATM (that did not always have cash). If you are following our route then be sure to get your bolivianos prior to departing Santa Cruz.
Language
Santa Cruz is a rapidly developing city but it has not drawn in foreigners as much as other parts of Bolivia. Due to this Spanish, the country’s official language, is the one primarily spoken here and having some basic understanding was genuinely very helpful.
We found hotel and restaurant staff to have reasonable English levels but some knowledge of Spanish was definitely required for less-touristy spots and for taxis or public transport. As with everywhere we travelled in Bolivia, locals really appreciated our Spanish speaking attempts (even if we were only at a basic Duolingo standard) so try to learn some conversational phrases at a minimum.
Safety
As mentioned before Santa Cruz is a rapidly developing city with a quickly increasing population. As such space is at a premium and, with rising populations numbers, some residential areas have become dangerously overcrowded. These areas have developed a rather worrisome reputation for illicit activities and high crime rates - they are not areas that you wish to find yourself in as a tourist, especially at night.
That being said Santa Cruz is also home to some of the most luxurious areas in Bolivia. We stayed in one of these neighbourhoods and had absolutely no issues walking from our accommodation to local restaurants, even in the evenings. It is definitely worth considering location when visiting Santa Cruz and utilising taxis if you need to cover larger inner city distances.
Speaking of transport, taxis are definitely the best way to go when getting around the city. There is a bus network but it is wild. It basically consists of small minibus that do follow set routes but they pickup and drop-off people anywhere along the streets. There also was no timetable that we could find and the drivers are fairly impatient with their desire to get from A to B. Almost all locals we spoke to said they did use the buses but highly recommended against them for tourists. Santa Cruz also has a lot of traffic and traversing roads can be pretty dangerous so try and use designated crossing points and never take a red stop sign for granted - we saw many drivers jumping red lights.
Public Transport
As mentioned before the best way to get around Santa Cruz was via taxi. The city has a few ride-hailing options and we used Uber when we were there. Taxis were very reasonably priced and meant we could avoid the aforementioned bus network whilst also using a safe option to go about our journeys.
If you are really desperate to use a bus you can do so. You could hail them from any part of the roadside on their route and most would have a number or final destination on the front to at least give you an idea of where you might end up. Timetables, route maps and information on payment options appear to be almost nonexistent.
How To Get There
Santa Cruz is located in the east of Bolivia and so therefore it is slightly off the typical tourist path that travellers take when visiting the country.
The easiest way to get there is to take a bus from Sucre. Sucre is a very common tourist destination in the centre of the country and has a large bus station that runs regular services between the two cities. These buses do appear to mostly be overnight ones and the journey from Sucre to Santa Cruz usually takes around 13-15 hours.
You can also reach Santa Cruz from Samaipata, although this journey requires a little more pre planning. There are no direct bus services as such connecting the mountain town to Santa Cruz but you do have a couple of options. The first is to do some negotiating (you’ll need to find a company to help you with this) and jump on one of the aforementioned buses travelling between Sucre and Santa Cruz. These all pass through the main road just outside Samaipata and can feasible pick you up enroute despite it not being an official stopping point. There is a company in Samaipata that offers this service (they operate out of a laundrette) and we actually did this going in the opposite direction from Samaipata to Sucre. Just be warned that you need to get tickets for this service a bit in advance and, if the bus from Sucre to Santa Cruz is full they’ll be no extra seats for you.
The other option is to head to the Expresso Samaipata office. They operate a trufi (shared minivans) to Santa Cruz. You will need a little luck as the trufis do not run on a set schedule. Instead you will have to turn up at the office and wait until there are enough passengers for a full bus, usually five or six in total, before the driver agrees to start the journey. Unfortunately, as you can probably guess, this means you could end up waiting at the office for quite a while, hoping some like minded adventurers turn-up. The best advice we have is to aim to get there early afternoon (1-3pm) as this is when the morning trufis that departed Santa Cruz arrive in Samaipata. The journey itself takes about three and a half hours but it can be longer depending on the amount of traffic getting into Santa Cruz (which is worse in the afternoon). The minibuses are absolutely fine but definitely not the most comfortable and there is a good chance some of your luggage might be strapped onto the roof but, overall, this is the best way to get from Samaipata to Santa Cruz. The cost per person is a set fee of 30 BOB (£3.40).
You can also do what we did and fly into Santa Cruz. The airport in the city is fairly well equipped and receives both domestic, as well as a few international flights. We flew in from the Paraguayan capital, Asunción. Starting out Bolivian adventure in Santa Cruz turned out to be a great choice as we were easily able to collect local currency and it is the perfect spot to then be able to head to Samaipata - a place we really wanted to visit.
Where To Next?
If you are planning a trip to Buenos Aires it is likely you are doing so as part of a longer/larger adventure. The city is superbly well connected which, alongside its wealth of attractions, makes it a perfect stopping point as part of a wider itinerary. Below are some suggestions for where you could travel to next.
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Samaipata,
BOLIVIA
As mentioned before, Santa Cruz offers a well connected minibus (trufi) service to the mountain town of Samaipata and we would highly recommend making this the next stop on your journey. Samaipata is slightly difficult to access, yet somewhere we genuinely do not think you will want to miss out on. Arriving from Santa Cruz is the most logical way and the shared trufi service will take around 3-4hrs, just remember that you may also be waiting at the office as the shuttle only leaves when enough passengers arrive.
Samaipata has access to a number of stunning natural tourist spots including the Codo de los Andes mountain range and famous Giant Fern Forest. It is one of the less visited towns on Bolivian itineraries and so still retains some of that ‘undiscovered charm’.
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Sucre,
BOLIVIA
If you do not want to stop in Samaipata then it is entirely logical to continue your journey to the Bolivian capital, Sucre. This UNESCO World Heritage city, renowned for its pristine white-washed architecture, provides a temperate escape where you can explore the world's largest collection of dinosaur tracks or take in panoramic views from the city’s elegant rooftops.
Reaching this city from Santa Cruz is most efficient by air, with direct flights taking approximately 45 to 55 minutes. The easiest route is to take a bus. These typically leave Santa Cruz in the late afternoon or evening and usually take around 12-14 hours, travelling overnight and arriving in Sucre the following morning.
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Asuncion,
PARAGUAY
If you are following our itinerary in reverse then you may well have travelled through Bolivia fully by now. An intriguing next destination could be a new, slightly less traversed, country - Paraguay.
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The easiest place to start your Paraguayan adventure is in the capital, Asuncion. It is a great historical city with plenty to see but also has a great transportation hub for onward journeys. The easiest way to get to the capital from Santa Cruz is to take a short haul flight. These appear to operate around three times a week and take around 1hr 45mins.
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La Paz,
BOLIVIA
One of the most popular Bolivian destinations, but one that we did not actually visit, is La Paz. It is not necessarily a geographically suitable next terminus from Santa Cruz given its vast distance but it is possible to travel between the two cities. It is an attractive option for tourists with its high altitude, local traditions and the worlds largest urban cable car network.
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One option for getting there from Santa Cruz is to take an overnight bus, but these can take a whopping 16-20hrs. You can also take an internal domestic flight which again, is much more costly, but takes just over one hour.
