Sucre
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Sucre is affectionately known as "La Ciudad Blanca" (The White City) and is often cited as the most beautiful city in Bolivian. It is famed for its pristine, whitewashed colonial architecture and iconic red-tiled roofs. While La Paz may hold the administrative power, Sucre remains the nation’s proud constitutional capital and the symbolic birthplace of Bolivian independence. As a famed tourist hub it is a well traversed city with a huge number of historical icons, some unique cultural experiences and access to one of the worlds most important paleontological sites.
Sucre is one of the most famous cities in Bolivia and its geographical location, in the centre of the country, means that most tourists to the country will pass through the constitutional capital at some point during their adventure. Sucre is affectionately known as the "White City" due to its remarkably well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture and whitewashed buildings, which have earned it a status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sucre is found at high altitude but its elevation of 2,810m sits just below the 3,000m threshold where travellers begin to experience altitude side effects, making it the perfect place to acclimatise before tackling the oxygen-thin heights Potosí or the Uyuni Salt Flats.
This city is more than just an escape from the breathlessness of Bolivia’s heights, it is a place steeped in history. Founded in 1538 as La Plata, the city became the opulent seat of the Spanish elites who managed the mines of nearby Potosí, which at there peak produced over half the world’s silver, but whom could not handle the intense altitude there. In 1825 Bolivia’s Declaration of Independence was signed in Sucre, officially ending centuries of Spanish rule. Left behind were the original checkerboard street plan, a wealth of 16th century-religious buildings that have remained virtually unchanged and iconic historical infrastructure constructed by the immense wealth previously drawn from the nearby silver mines. There is so much to see and learn in this city, it really deserves more than to be a simply passing point on you way further north or south. From its revolutionary echoes in the halls of independence to the ancient dinosaur footsteps left on its surrounding peaks, Sucre stands as a timeless bridge between Bolivia’s prehistoric past and its elegant colonial soul.
Things To Do
1. Cementerio General
A cemetery might seem like an odd place to put on a list of must sees but the Cementerio General is widely regarded as one of Latin Americas most beautiful cemeteries. Founded in 1826 by order of Grand Marshal Antonio José de Sucre, the cemetery was established shortly after Bolivia gained its independence from Spain. Its creation marked a significant shift in burial customs, the government moved burials away from church floors and city centres to dedicated suburban spaces.
We visited the world-famous Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina and whilst this one was just as impressive, it radiated a more local feel. It is not a common stop on most lists when visiting Sucre and I do not think we saw any other tourists when wandering the elaborate alleyways. The cemetery is divided into distinct sections that historically reflected one's status in Sucre’s high society. The central avenues are lined with elaborate mausoleums, many of which were designed by European architects and constructed using imported Italian marble. These grand structures belong to the "Silver Barons" and the aristocratic elite of the 19th century, such as the Argandoña family (the Princes of La Glorieta) and the Pacheco family, whose wealth from the Potosí mines helped transform Sucre into a city of immense luxury.
The cemetery also serves as a pantheon of Bolivian leadership, housing the remains of numerous former presidents and historical figures. However, the site is equally famous for its "niches", rows of stacked burial compartments that stretch into long corridors. These niches are often rented for periods of ten to twenty years, after which the remains are typically moved to a communal ossuary. These niches are immaculately cared for by families who frequently visit, bringing fresh flowers and cleaning the glass cases that house miniature dioramas of the deceased’s favourite things.
The cemetery is easy to reach, it is a 15-20 minute walk from the city’s main plaza and, whilst entry is free, there are guided tours offered by local students. They offer 30-minute historical tours for approximately 35 BOB (£3.75) but be aware these will likely be in Spanish.
Opening Times:
MON-SUN (8:00am-5:30pm)
Cost:
FREE
2. Parque Cretácico
Located around 5km outside of Sucre’s city centre, the Parque Cretácico started life as an accidental discovery but is now home to one of the world’s largest collections of dinosaur footprints. The site itself was first noticed in 1985 by workers at the nearby cement plant while quarrying limestone. Subsequent research and excavation quickly led to the realisation that this was one of the most significant paleontological finds of the century, featuring over 12,000 tracks from at least nine different dinosaur species.
The prints are housed on a massive vertical limestone wall called Cal Orck’o (Lime Hill). During the Late Cretaceous period, the area was a flat shoreline of a shallow freshwater lake. Dinosaurs walking on the soft ground left deep indentations within the mud and these were then solidified by drought. Subsequent wet seasons and continuous repeated cycles of this process has left multiple distinct layers of these fossilised tracks. The tracks now are found on a vertical wall, the result of tectonic activity pushing the horizontal lakebed remnants upwards, but that only helps add to the impressiveness when viewing.
The area was declared a National Monument in 1998 and, to allow public viewing without damaging the fragile footprints, the Parque Cretácico was opened in 2006. Not only are the able to visit the footprint wall, the site also features a small museum and some impressive life-sized dinosaur replicas. To see the footprints up close, you must join a guided tour that’s descends to the base of the Cal Orck’o wall, complete with hard hat. These tours only run twice a day, at midday and 1pm so ensure you time your visit accordingly. This is easily done given that there is a specialised shuttle, the Dino-Bus, that departs from the main plaza in Sucre at set times (9:30, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00) taking around twenty minutes to reach the park.
As a dinosaur enthusiast, I absolutely loved this place but I would highly recommend a visit for anyone given the historical significance that this site possesses.
Opening Times:
TUES-SUN (9am-5pm)
Cost:
Adults: 30 BOB (£3.25), Children under 10: 5 BOB (£0.50)
Dino-Bus: 15 BOB (£1.60), return journey
3. Espacio Cultural Origenes
One of the most popular attractions in Sucre is the vibrant traditional folklore show hosted by the Espacio Cultural Origenes cultural centre. Located just a short walk from the main plaza, the vibrant venue offers a high-energy showcase of traditional dance, music and hand-crafted costumes.
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The show itself lasts around 2-3 hours in total and highlights dance and music from the different cultural regions of Bolivia. You can opt for a dinner package, which includes a multiple course dinner served whilst the performance is on-going, or, like we did, entry and seating only. We have been to many of these types of shows and performances on our travels and most have the feeling of being tourist-focused rather than authentic but this entire setup was on another level. The production, costumes and service were all incredibly professional and the attached museum details the history and tradition behind the shows. Keep in mind that this show only runs once per evening (and is limited to certain days each week) so I would highly recommend booking your tickets in advance, which you can do so on the official reservation portal.
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Opening Times:
WEDS-SUN (show starts at 8pm)
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Cost:
Show entry only: 120 BOB (£13), Show entry with dinner: 170 BOB (£18.25)
4. Museo de Arte Indígena
Situated just a short walk away from Espacio Cultural Origenes centre, the Museo de Arte Indígena is widely considered one of Bolivia’s most important museums. It is dedicated to showcasing the ancestral weaving traditions of the Jalq'a and Tarabuco (Yampara) cultures. It has a number of exhibition rooms which display an intricate collection of hand-loomed textiles, from a range of cultural and historical sources.
Exhibits are predominantly in Spanish but detailed guidebooks are available at the entrance in both English and French. Local weavers often perform live demonstrations and their works are available to purchase in the on-site shops with proceeds directly supporting the indigenous artisans involved.
Opening Times:
MON-SAT (9am-12pm & 2:30pm-6pm)
Cost:
30 BOB (£3.25)
5. Templo de San Felipe Neri
In a city renowned for its wealth of religiously historical buildings the Templo de San Felipe Neri still manages to stand out amongst the crowd. This ex-covent is actually now an all-girls school, with classrooms being situated in the old dormitories. The original building was built around 1800 and is famed for its white-coloured architecture , the type that is synonymous with the city.
Since the building is still an active school, public access is generally restricted to the afternoons. Most of the time you will find the gate closed and, like we had to, you will have to ring the rather inconspicuous doorbell in order to be let in. The complex still has a functioning church and an extensive collection of religious paintings but the main highlight is the tiled roof terrace which offers extensive views across the city and a perfect spot to watch a beautiful sunset.
Opening Times:
MON-SAT (2:30pm-5:30pm)
Cost:
15 BOB (£1.60)
6. Plaza de Armas 25 de Mayo
As with most South American towns and cities, Sucre is home to a central plaza. The one here is called Plaza de Armas 25 de Mayo and it is the historic heart of Sucre. It is named in honour of the revolutionary movement which begun in 1809 that attempted to gain independence from Spanish rule. The Act of Independence was actually signed on 6th August 1825 in the Casa de la Libertad, on the plazas northwestern edge, and the original documents can be seen still housed within this building today.
This plaza is a lot more relaxing than some of the others we visited on the continent. Well manicured gardens, palm trees and a huge number of benches evoke a serene atmosphere and offer the perfect place to unwind. You will find plenty of local food carts, include the exquisite fresh orange juice stalls which are well worth a visit.
Opening Times:
MON-SUN (24 hours)
Cost:
FREE
7. Guereo Mansion
The Guereo Mansion looks fairly unassuming from the outside. It is an old Bolivian family estate that was later acquired by the city of Sucre. It is not necessarily in the greatest condition but it is still a unique architectural gem.
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Inside you will find vibrant pink-coloured arches in the courtyard and stairs leading up to the old bell tower. There is also an extensive garden which is currently home to a very cute cafe where you can enjoy a refreshing beverage and a snack in a very peaceful setting. It is also situated nearby to Calle de los Gatos, a photogenic cobblestone street that is also worth a visit when in the area.
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Opening Times:
TUES-SUN (9am-5:00pm)
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Cost:
FREE
Where To Stay
Sucre is a fairly large city, laid out in a grid-like system, and the good news is you cannot really pick a ‘wrong’ area to base yourself for your visit so long as you aim for somewhere in the centre. Unlike some South American cities, the entirety of downtown Sucre is very walkable, albeit with the odd challenging incline, but this means wherever you choose to stay will put you within walking distance of the main attractions.
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When you are looking for a place to stay, aim for somewhere close to the main plaza. I would recommend somewhere south of the Avenue Hernando Siles/Camargo one way road but, after that, anywhere within the grid system around the plaza is a great bet. This section of town is known as Casco Viejo and you will find a range of accommodation options available within this area as well as access to a wealth of restaurants, eateries, banks and convenience stores. The inner grid system is a bit of a nightmare for drivers (almost all the roads are one-way) so just be aware that, if you stay right in the centre, taxi journeys to/from your accommodation might take a little longer than you expect.
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We stayed at Mi Pueblo Samary, an old boutique hotel about four roads over from the main plaza. The rooms were a little tired but the location was perfect, with it being an easy walk to all the main attractions. The highlight of this property was the outside space. There is a central courtyard, with a beautifully manicured garden area and most rooms have an outdoor seating or terrace area. There is also a delightful little rooftop, accessed by a spiral staircase, which you can sit out on an enjoy radiant views out across the city - it is also a perfect spot to enjoy an evening sunset.
Location Tips to Consider
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Find a place near the main plaza (Plaza de Armas 25 de Mayo) in the Casco Viejo district. Honestly anywhere around the main square is fine, all the roads around are very walkable and there are plenty of restaurants to be found on each corner.
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There are a variety of accommodation types available and all are worthy candidates depending on your budget.
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Sucre is a large city with plenty of accommodation options outside the centre but I would advise against looking anywhere other than the main district.
Where To Eat
Despite being a charming, traditional-looking city on the outside, Sucre is very much a multi-cultural affair when it comes to food options. There are a number of different restaurants found here ranging from establishments offering local cuisine to fine-dining experiences. We were surprised at the range of different cuisine on offer, with a real mixture of international dining options found. Most of the top rated restaurants are also found within the Casco Viejo district, giving another good reason to base yourself there.
BEST FOR A MEAL
01
Bienmesabe
This is one of the restaurants that we were surprised to find in Sucre, a Venezuelan specialising in arepas. You can build your own corn-based flatbread with a number of delicious filling options, including chorizo and pulled pork. We actually went here first for a lunch but quickly realised that the portions are substantial in size so it easily fulfils the brief as a proper meal.
Opening Times: MON-SAT (9am-3pm & 4pm-10pm)
Cost: £
02
Café Monterosso
A unique, family-run restaurant owned by an Italian who has lived in Sucre for a long time. As is to be expected the Italian food on offer was divine, with delicious freshly made pastas and a homemade tiramisu to finish. From the outside this establishment simply looks like another unassuming house and you have to ring the doorbell to gain entry!
Opening Times: TUES-SAT (7pm-10pm)
Cost: £
BEST FOR A SNACK
01
Coffee Bike
This is the small coffee shop now situated in the gardens of Guereo Mansion. It has a vast, idyllic outdoor seating area, with enough shade to escape the afternoon Sucre sunshine. On offer is a range of hot or iced beverages and a small selection of food items, with the highlights being the very tasty croissants and large cookies.
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Opening Times: MON-FRI (3pm-9pm), SAT-SUN (9am-8pm)
Cost:
02
Typica Café Sucre
Thus uniquely decorated cafe, with its reams of books and vinyl records, offers a range of light bites, beverages and desserts. The owners are extremely personable and we went here one evening to sit in the beautifully lit garden patio area, with soothing background music playing, where we enjoyed an incredible brownie.
Opening Times: MON-SUN (8am-9pm)
Cost:
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
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Best Time to Visit
In terms of cost it really does not matter when you visit Sucre. Whilst there is some seasonal variation in terms of accommodation prices, it is so minimal that I would not give it too much thought when planning a trip. August typically sees a small hike in prices but that is because it coincides with Bolivia's Independence Day (6th August) which can see an increased number of domestic tourists visiting.
The main consideration when planning a trip to Sucre is the weather. The city has an overall cooler climate than in comparison to other parts of the nation, predominantly due to its position at elevation. The dry season (May-August),where rainfall really is at a minimum, is considered the best time of year to visit . You will likely experience cloud free skies, very little precipitation (on average it rains less than one day per month during this span) and comfortable temperatures - reaching highs of 20-24°C. September and October are technically when the dry season starts to end but they can be fantastic months to visit as the temperature increases a little and rain is usually limited to the odd, short thunderstorm. November-March is the cities rainy season but the temperatures remain comfortable throughout this time. Although it is described as a rainy season it really does not involve as much rain as you might imagine. The precipitation can became a bit more prolonged at times, with it being at its heaviest during December-February, but January is the only month that averages more rainy days than dry ones. It is entirely feasible to travel to Sucre during the 'rainy' season and not actually see any rain, although it is likely to be more cloudy. April is when the rains start to dissipate and the clearer skies return and so can become a good shoulder month to visit.
We traveled to Sucre in the middle of October, continuing our trend of visit places during their shoulder months, and had great weather. We did experience some rain abut this was confined to some brief thunderstorms in the evenings. During the day we saw cloudless skies and bright sunshine for the most part. Temperatures were comfortable, creeping up to the mid-twenties at times, and so I would highly recommend the shoulder months of September and October if you cannot travel during the peak dry season.
Currency
Sucre is a big city and therefore it was easy to pay for services using either cash or card. Alongside the rest of the country the official currency is the Bolivianos (BOB) and we found this to be the best option to use when paying in cash. There are plenty of ATMs around to withdraw money and a number of legitimate currency exchanges that made the process of swapping cash easy. We also found a number of places, including most restaurants, accepted card payments.
We travelled to Sucre from Samaipata - the latter being a town that had no currency exchange and only one ATM (that itself did not always have cash). If you are following our route in reverse and moving onto Samaipata next then be sure to get cash prior to departing Sucre.
Language
As mentioned before, Sucre appeared to be a very cosmopolitan city and it is probably the place in Bolivia where we found the most English speakers. As with the rest of the country, the official language here is Spanish and so learning some basic phrases for use in certain situations is definitely a good idea.
We found hotel and restaurant staff to have reasonable English levels. As with everywhere we travelled in Bolivia, locals really appreciated our Spanish speaking attempts so try to learn some conversational phrases at a minimum.
Safety
Sucre was one of the places in South America where we felt the safest. As mentioned before, this is a walking city, especially in the central district. Locals and tourists alike use the narrow sidewalks to navigate the grid-like street system and, at no point, did we feel out of place wandering. We actual ended up arriving in the city at about 5am in the morning (thanks to an uncharacteristically early running bus transfer) but even at that time we felt okay walking the streets to locate our hotel.
The roads themselves can be a little chaotic. The street system, as mentioned prior, is made up of entirely one-way roads which can easily get backed-up with traffic during busy periods. This leads to a lot of frustrated drivers so just be careful when crossing the many intersections.
We obviously confined ourselves to the Casco Viejo district only so cannot comment on safety standards outside of this particular area. Although we experienced no problems overall it is worth noting, as with any major city, that exercising street smarts is very important. look after your valuables and belongings, be aware of surroundings when using ATMs etc, but with some simply precautions we felt very comfortable in Sucre.
Public Transport
Genuinely, the best way to get around Sucre is on foot and so you should not have much need for public transport. Should you wish to venture further afield (there are some interesting hiking opportunities just outside of the city) then we recommend opting for a licensed radio taxi. Uber is not operational in Sucre but there is an option for ordering taxis. The local radio cabs are managed via the official "Transporte Público Sucre" app, which ensures regulated, transparent pricing and is highly recommended over hailing a taxi on the street. Alternatively you can ask accommodation to book transport for you - they almost always refer to this taxi app and book for you.
There is a bus network that runs around Sucre. Known as colectivos, these mini-bus run various routes throughout the cit (although there is almost no information online about where each route goes). They are known to be incredibly cheap but are not a method utilised by tourists.
How To Get There
Sucre is located in the central area of Bolivia, in the belt of land than separates the arid south with the more tropical north and east. Its central locale and geopolitical importance mean that there are a number of ways to reach Sucre.
The easiest way to get there is to take a bus. Sucre's main bus station is located just outside of the central district but a number of 'cama' services (overnight buses) operate to Sucre from various destinations. The main routes operate from La Paz (10-12 hrs), Santa Cruz de la Sierra (10-13hrs), Cochabamba (8-9hrs) and Uyuni (6-8hrs). We actually picked up the one from Santa Cruz when it stopped in Samaipata and continued onto Sucre. We had heard some horror stories about these buses but honestly, every one that we got in Bolivia was excellent. The sleeper ones were comfortable, spacious and surprisingly time efficient - we often arrived at our destination early. They are easy to book, with the online platform Tickets Bolivia offering an easy method of selecting a specific service, seat configuration and seeing what additional services are offered (air conditioning, toilet etc).
If a lengthy overnight bus does not take your fancy you can opt for a shorter, daytime trip from Potosi (3-4hrs). or you can opt to fly. Granted the second option is a more expensive one but Sucre has a domestic airport that receives flights from La Paz and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. As of writing this it is impossible to fly internationally into Sucre so if you want to avoid the buses you will have to travel to one of the two aforementioned cities prior before connecting to Sucre.
Where To Next?
We spent four nights in Sucre and that gave us plenty of time to see everything that the city had to offer. In all honesty we could have probably stretched an extra couple of nights here easily - we did not manage to see everything (we did not even make it to the famous Casa de la Libertad). The city also had a very fun, relaxing charm to it that made us want to stay longer, which I guess is always a glowing endorsement. I would recommend somewhere between 3-6 nights. If you are planning to travel to Sucre then the likelihood is that you are wanting to visit other parts of Bolivia as well. These are the best recommendations for where to go next:
1
Samaipata,
BOLIVIA
If you are following our itinerary in reverse then you will be looking to head to Samaipata from Sucre. The small mountain town is currently not a mainstay on every Bolivian itinerary but it has plenty of amazing attractions to offer and, in our opinion, is well worth a visit. Getting there from Sucre is not the most straightforward as there is not currently a direct bus route. You have to catch one of the sleeper buses heading to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, which passes through Samaipata, and negotiate with the driver to let you off. Whilst we highly recommend visiting Samaipata it is a lot easier to do so from Santa Cruz de la Sierra directly, so the other option is to head there first and then go back on yourself.
Samaipata has access to a number of stunning natural tourist spots including the Codo de los Andes mountain range and famous Giant Fern Forest. It is one of the less visited towns on Bolivian itineraries and so still retains some of that ‘undiscovered charm’.
2
Santa Cruz de la Sierra,
BOLIVIA
If you do not want to stop in Samaipata, or want an easier way to get to the mountain town, then we recommend heading to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. This city offers a much more tropical climate and is one of the fastest developing cities in South America. As such it is home to a number of high-end hotels and accommodation but it also offers a number of unique outdoor attractions, including the supremely impressive sand dunes at Lomas de Arenas.
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Reaching this city from Sucre is most efficient by air, with direct flights taking approximately 45 to 55 minutes. The easiest route is to take a sleeper bus. These typically leave Sucre in the late afternoon or evening and usually take around 12-14 hours, travelling overnight and arriving in Sucre the following morning.
3
Potosi,
BOLIVIA
Probably the most logical next stop from Sucre would be a visit to the mountain town of Potosi. The city sits at a dizzying elevation of 4,090 metres above sea level but it has a rich history. It is home to Cerro Rico, the mountain that once contained the worlds largest silver deposit, and the Casa Nacional de la Moneda, a building that operated as the main Spanish colonial mint.
It also is a fantastic place to then head to the iconic Uyuni Salt Flats from, plus the altitude acclimatisation that you do in Potosi will come in handy when entering the Salt Flats. Regular, direct buses connect Sucre with Potosi and can be covered in a relatively short 3-4hrs.
4
Uyuni,
BOLIVIA
The most popular destination in Bolivia and gateway to the legendary Salt Falts, Uyuni could easily be your next destination from Sucre. Buses take around 6-8hrs to travel between the two destinations, but are limited to sleeper options only as far as we can tell. If you want a daytime option you will need to take one to Potosi, swap terminals before taking another to Uyuni.
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From the town of Uyuni you will be able to join one of the epic tours that traverse the vast Salt Flat landscape. Whilst this is likely where you plan on ending up I would highly recommend a stop in Potosi on the way.
